Bob's Blog

Khumbu Fever

Horse grazing by the Dudh Koshi

So it has me. The cold has come. Felt my lymph nodes in my neck and they are enlarged. Then I instantly recognised the signs of a cold, or sickness.

I have three days of walking coming up. Dawn till dust, top speed, barely time to break for lunch. I'd done exactly the same before, it was a necessary at the time. This time I have leeway, but I still want out asap.

The first couple of days are okay, but the last is a tough 1.6km straight up. Then there's the jeep ride at 4am back to Kathmandu. Fun for a few hours until the road goes to complete muck and endless traffic jams begin. Plus, last time we got stiffed, it wasn't a jeep but a electric minivan.

Still on the bright side, the sickness didn't come until after I'd finally done what I set out to. So thankful for that. Hope I don't pass it on to anyone still going up. Must remember to get some throat lozenges in Namche.

Struggled to get food today. I knew a spot in Thukla, with a nice guy that charged the real prices. Yet as it was so high up, it was a bit more expensive. So I thought I'd go to a cheaper place a bit further down.

Went in and didn't want to bark orders, so sat quietly. Sometimes it's best to settle in like you belong and know the score, though this can mean waiting a while.

Anyhow, this young dude with grey dyed hair, ignored me quite a while last time and this time plainly didn't want to serve me, even the other Sherpas noticed. In the end I got up and left, hungry.