Bob's Blog

Roads of Aztecs

The White Cross

9th November 2015

The night was so humid I slept in a pool of my own sweat, at one point I opened the door of my tent to let some air in, though woke a while later scratching my back from a dozen mosquito bites. The waves crashed down and pounded the sand through the rest of the fitful night.

I awoke to a beach that was already filling up. The guy who owned the place obviously wanted us gone as he was spraying water all over the tables, and also on to my tent, Grrr!

After a breakfast of coco pops, we cycled the 10k back to the main road and said my goodbyes to the cycling group, who were heading to Puerto Valarta - I decided to take the shorter route, escape the heat and the mosquitos!

It was a big climb for the start - 1000m winding round and round. I felt strong, I think I really have my cycling legs now as I powered up most of it. The traffic was sketchy, a lot of it and no room to move. I had my eye on my mirror and jumped off the road if I saw a truck coming. The road later was worse for traffic, I had a couple of close shaves. Think I'll take the toll road with hard shoulder tomorrow.

Got to a town for the evening but couldn't decide where to go and ask to camp, the red cross was just a building, the churches had no outside space. So I decided to haul up to the top of a hill with a big lit cross. Perfect, away from the hassle of the town, with a nice cool breeze but can roll down for breakfast tomorrow.

Snake Eyes

10th November 2015

The perfect spot on the top of the hill overlooking the town turned out to be a Saturday night party spot. After midnight a car or two turned up and blasted music out for a few hours. Hey ho. I still woke feeling chipper, if a bit befuddled.

Chatted to a few folk who where up the top early, presumably waiting for the Sunday service to start. I rolled down the hill - easier than yesterday where I for some reason hauled my bike up the never ending steps - and back into town. Onto the toll road and onwards for Tequila.

The road was enjoyable though with only one stop in 80k. I felt like I was bonking airer one stiff climb.

Rolled into to Tequila thirsty and hungry. A stall in the square was selling what looked like refreshing drinks. I ordered what the lady before me had, but it was not quite the thirst quencher I hoped for - gather it was Tequila rice milk, or something. Anyhow, I set about what I came to do - went to the Jose Cuervo distillery and knocked back a shot of the finest Tequila and then wobbled out of town - was the rice drink alcoholic?

Still had 70k to do to get to Guadalajara so got back on the toll road where I cycled past a huge snake. I've seen quite a few snakes, mostly road kill, the rest slithering away at high speed but this one looked me right in the eyes with its piecing red glare. I passed it within striking range, I couldn't go out any further otherwise I'd have hit traffic and I didn't notice it until too late. Though it just sat there as if in a trace from the traffic. I did see a squirrel moments later, so it could have just eaten his buddy and was busy digesting. 12th November 2015 • Lake Chapala Left the comfort of Guadalajara, where after the first nights hostel, which was hotter than my tent and didn't even bother to provide their guests with drinking water, I found a perfect place downtown, in an old building, cool and airy. Was rather pleased to sleep in till 10am both days. Didn't see much of the place, except to take a few pies of the historic quarter

Had no idea which route I was taking out and still hadn't decided when I checked out. As it was 2pm and Lake Chapala was only 55km away that was what I decided.

The road was rather gnarly leaving Guadalajara and was for most of the way. Lots of traffic. One car, with an American women in, pulled along side me and asked me if I needed a lift. They seemed like they wanted to help. Should have asked for a place to stay but I didn't.

Got to Chapala and the lake is beautiful. The town seemed quite prosperous. I asked at the Red Cross if I could camp there but ended up speaking with an American who worked there, he said blah blah blah, insurance issues, blah, blah, blah, boss wouldn't like it etc. - typical American stance - all the other Red Crosses let you camp, no questions asked. Though he pointed me to a lakeside park a few km away. He said there were 80,000 Americans living there. Surprising.

Found the park eventually, nice spot next to the reeds and lake. Currently fighting off tons of mosquitos and listening to the croaking of lots of frogs. I wish I had mosquito proof socks.

Classroom Camping

13th November 2015

Great place to wake up next to the lake. Was camping on perfect grass next to a public BBQ - no doubt the park was paid from the American/Canadian dollars. Found a Scorpion outside my tent during the night, about the length of a finger, then when I saw another baby one, I double checked nothing had crawled into my tent. Not really sure how bad a Scorpion bite is - should really look that

The day was cycling the length of the lake and it was astounding, more so that the tar ran out and lots of it was just dirt track through little villages.

Made it to La Barca where I thought I may find a place to stay or at least get some tacos. Had a look round and there was no obvious place to ask to camp, no Red Cross, couldn't find the fire station and the church's Mexico never have any outside space. So had some tacos and carried on riding. Always seem to leave it to the last minute when I'm not sure of a place to stay.

Could have camped on the passing farmland but didn't pick up any food and didn't want to starve, so carried on to the next town. Saw the church, hoped in a small town it may have some land around it. No hope. Onto next town. Dark. Final.

Went to the church, not much land just hoped they'd let me sleep inside. They had a service going on and I waited an eternity for it to finish. The churches are well attended in Mexico but mostly by women. When the service finished, a couple of people spoke a bit of English. I tried my best to speak Spanish. I'd caused quite a commotion. It seemed the whole town was out in front of the church deciding what to do with me. They brought forward a young girl who could speak English. The pastor/priest came out, at least I think it was him. He proceeded to gable on in Spanish, waited for me to say yes (I understand), then he left. I had to ask what he'd said -I had no clue.

So it turned out was off to an empty school building, just had to wait for the key. A11 of the town were talking to me and all the women were asking me if I wanted food, I politely declined. Eventually a man led me to the building and offered me tacos which I gratefully accepted. He brought over a huge plate of tacos and a coke, said I could come to his to take a shower and could stay there or remain in the school. Think I'll stick with the blackboard, no need for a shower, had one only yesterday - I'm still fresh as could be.

The Kindness of Strangers

14th November 2015

Left the small town of San Ramon but didn't see any of the people who helped me the night before. Slept well but didn't feel all that great. Today was Friday 13th and I was cycling through Michocan, the dodgiest state in all of Mexico. Starting from the Americans north of the border to the majority of Mexicans I met, all said to avoid Michocan. Cartel problems, kidnappings, dead Canadian cyclist.

Anyhow ride was windy, dusty, windy, repeat. All farmland, little else, one picture for the whole day says it all. Rode on big roads with lots of traffic. Was rather soul destroying, was wondering how I'd get through the next 400km to Mexico City, even started contemplating taking the bus.

Then I got my Friday 13th bad luck, a puncture - which I obviously didn't properly the first time - as per usual.

Was more prepared to camp than yesterday, stopped at a shop and got some decent food and beer, just didn't leave enough time to find a stealth camp spot. Ended up at the church again, though I think this'll be the last time - I think they are far too busy to deal with a rogue cyclist. The pastor was dealing with a queue of people and whatever he helps them with.

Eventually a man said (in rambling Spanish) I should go to a place called Casa San Antonio and said it was up the road, it was dark and I knew never find it but I reluctantly left.

Badly fixed puncture was almost flat so I was riding in the pitch black with a flat tyre. After searching for the place a while I stopped at the petrol station and put more air in, at least so I could cycle on to find a place.

Started cycled back and asked some guys if they knew of the place called Casa San Antonio - didn't have much clue, though were very helpful. One of the guys, Misael offered to drive me to a place that might be it, so I took him up on the offer. In the end he invited me to his house with his family. Shared dinner and conversation. All's well that ends well. Don't need luck when there's the kindness of strangers.

Lost in the Scrub

15th November 2015

Slept well in a proper bed! Misael made me eggs and coffee, switched the flat for a new tube and was off on my way.

Small roads, not that interesting and a brutal headwind but I was in a good mood. Stopped for a torta and it was only 15 pesos (paid 60 for one in Baja) and the lady gave me a free coke! Chatted to a few of the people, think I'm getting better at telling people in Spanish what I'm doing etc.

Decided to follow a Google maps walking route to avoid busier roads. Climbed to the top of a hill of a dirt track and was following farming fields, then the track just ran out, even though I was bang on the GPS location. Eventually found a small track that went through the scrub, not easy. Had to haul my bike through, didn't seem like anyone had used it for ages. I was pushing through huge spider webs and was a little worried about snakes. Anyhow finally found a way out and got to a small town by a lake.

Great spot minus the mosquitoes, must have swavtted 50 odd I found in my tent. Wind is quite strong, hope it doesn't rain. And it's that cool, I've zipped my sleeping bag up. Can hear distant drumming from the town, practicing for the independence day celebrations no doubt.

Bonk Bonk Bonk

16th November 2015

Not much happening, except climbing 1000m, cycling 160km - with 2hrs in the dark. Wanted to get to Mexico City tomorrow and would rather cycle in the dark in the hard shoulder, than when I arrive in Mexico City.

The only incident was when two women denied giving me water - despite a tank sitting behind them (which I was quite willing pay for). If there's one thing that gets my goat, it's that. Only ever happened to me once before and that was in the US.

Ended up bonking on the toll road for ages, no where to stop. Lack of water didn't help - didn't have much food either, took to eating plain sugar to keep me going. Still some man bought me a coke when I did get to a stop. Already drunk one coke but that helped me make it the rest of the way.

Much colder now as it's higher was shivering when I stopped and everyone kept asking me if I was cold, though no point in putting a jumper on, cycling would soon warm me back up, though I couldn't quite convey that in my limited Spanish.

Camping just off the road, next to some seemingly empty building, didn't have much choice as it was dark and couldn't see much, though it's a nice spot. Just finished a big tub of m'n'm ice cream, should help replace all those calories I've just burnt, yum.

Mexico City tomorrow! And Independence day, wonder if I'll catch much, fireworks have been going off tonight already, I assume it's a public holiday. The road looks mighty hilly, think it's gonna take a while.

Mayan Majesty

21st March 2016

So, back on the bike. Arrived late in the night in Palenque, would have considered a hostel but touring equals don't pay for accommodation, its almost like a cardinal rule amongst tourers. If you pay you have somehow let yourself down. Anyhow, the hostel was as expensive as a hotel room and not great ratings. So I just started on the road towards the temples and just camped right next to the road, in full sight of everyone. It was 12 30, I was past caring.

As it went, I didn't really sleep, no matter how many times I kept repeating the album I was listening to, must have been too excited to be back on the road. Got out of the tent to the surprise of some people walking to work and then I made made my way to Palenque.

Palenque was magical, ancient Mayan temples in beautifully landscaped gardens. Though if it were surrounded by jungle I would have felt like Indiana Jones.

That evening, I spend a wonderful night by a waterfall and had the entire place to myself, needless to say, it felt great to be back on the bike!