Bob's Blog

Bolivian Diaries

4th October 2016

Had a rather terrible night, though mostly of my own making. The camping stop I found was nice enough, next to the river, slightly rocky but okay. The humidity and the noise of the jungle had made it feel slightly oppressive and claustrophobic. It felt similar to the Amazon, in that as soon as the lights went out, in would roll a massive storm and reduce the humidity. Ever since, perhaps walking the coast-to-coast in England, when I was stuck on top of a moor, the tallest thing around, when huge lightening storm rolled in, I have been a tad apprehensive about storms.

Anyhow, as expected, soon after dark the sky was alight in the distance, though I could not hear the thunder or even see the crackle. Still, it had me in a fix, I was anxious that it was coming my way, I had no cover and only reeds behind me. I dozed for a while, but could not sleep properly, unsure as to what I'd do when it rolled in. At around midnight, I heard thunder, and thought right, I can't sleep like this, so decided to walk to the nearby bridge - if I moved my tent there, I could rest easy (despite that being under a bridge probably doesn't help!).

No luck there, the underside of the bridge was overgrown and thick foliage. Back to tent. Half slumber. Here comes the rain. Surprisingly the rain didn't indicate the proceeding storm, though in my $15 non-waterproof tent I was still getting wet, and its rather difficult to sleep as drops of rain drip on your forehead. Eventually, the rain passed and slept somewhat, needless to say it was a late getaway that day!

5th October 2016

Absolutely beat. Cycled 70km today, and that's a lot considering the hills - it was a tough day. I'm in my tent, not the best spot but I was racing down the side of the side of the mountain just before dark, to try and make the river - not to be. Too many bugs, too tired to cook. Dinner so far has been a packet of chocolate (brown) biscuits, and uncooked lentils. I've been using this water filer another cyclist sold me in La Paz, but it takes so much effort I'm barely taking enough fluids in. Anyhow, these lentils have been soaked and washed in river water several times since last night, hope I don't get a bad stomach.

A word stuck in my head today - inquisitive, something I probably lack, at least in certain areas, the old cynic often overruling. Anyhow, I started the day trying strike up conversations with locals, and generally being friendlier than I usually am. A friendly man in a small shop let me cook five eggs, yay - no doubt that brought joy to the rest of the days pit stops. I also bought some of the coca leaves, which I hadn't really tried until now.

Growing coca is illegal in Peru, and legal in Bolivia, though you wouldn't notice the difference. Evo Morales declared the growing of coca part of Bolivia's cultural history, in a two lingers up to the US's war on drugs. However whist allowing coca leaves to be grown and consumed in the traditional manor, he has tired to eradicate the production and export of cocaine. Apparently to turn it into cocaine, part of the process is to soak the leaves in kerosene. It does make you wonder, who first tried that.

Anyhow, the coca leaves they chew in a similar manor to people who chew tobacco. It's really just a mild stimulant, I masticated all day, to little effect. I'll finish the bag, waste not want not, after all but I think I'll stick to the coffee after that. Actually, come to think of it, maybe that's why I'm so beat, and managed 70km (75, including wrong turns!)

6th October 2016

Today, I cycled, as the crow flies, 16km! 16km! And it was a really tough, long day. Even actual road kilometres were only 36km. Well it's not the miles that count.

Had a fitful night, scratching the mosquito and sand flies bites, that I'd either gotten whilst setting up my tent, or were inside biting me at will. Anyhow, awoke (late again) feeling joyful and excited - it helps when the beating sun isn't the one to wake you, the shade of the trees let me plod along at my own pace (when say late, only. 8.30am late, pretty early, usually for me!).

Had a puncture, something I thought I may have, considering my camp spot was full of thorns. I'd left La Paz with no glue for patching my tyre, though had an old inner tube, so just switched it out.

Rolled down to the mostly dry riverbed, and followed the road to the actual river. No bridge, except what looked like the remains of one a bit further down. Humph. Saw another trail heading to nearer the 'bridge' - must have missed the turning. So hauled back up some of the mountain. Nope. The trail, was now just a narrow track, if cars were going across, they were driving through the river.

OK, back to the river, and after spotting two people fishing, I asked, just to make sure, that I did indeed have to wade through. Confirmed. So off I went, tested the waters fist, then across with the bike and then back, and across with the rest of my gear. Had to do this again for another channel before I made it to the other side. An exciting start to the day!

Next up. Tyre flat. Yep, I tested the puncture gods and got punished. No spare no glue. No people. No towns for two days ride. Stuck, but without glue!

OK, I tried to tape the puncture with sellotape. Thought it worked, was busy congratulating myself, when five minutes later, it went flat. I thought if I had to, I could keep stopping and pumping up the tyre but it would be one long annoying day! I did have an old glue that was empty and dried up, thought I'd cut it open, just to see. Luck would have it that there was a smidgen, really an absolute smidgen of the liquid stuff. Managed to cover 70% of a patch, squeezed and applied as much pressure as I could, and yep it seemingly worked. Fingers crossed I make it to Independencia, the next town and get some more glue.

After all that dilly dallying, I was left to climb in the unrelenting midday sun. I was low on water (big river water was so dirty I didn't take much) and low on food. I didn't make it to any signs of life until 4.30pm and all day only seen one car (the one stuck in the river in the morning, finally passed me late afternoon). The side of the mountain I was climbing had no water and the village was the same. I had to ask live people before someone gave me some.

Rode up, and into the clouds. At the end of the day approached I found the first running water since the big river. Always a perfect spot for camping. The spot I found had lots of wood, so made a camp fire and cooked my dinner on it. A satisfying end to a tough but great day.

8th October 2016

A nice and relaxed start to the day, despite my campsite being discovered (I hate that!). Found a beautiful rock pool with waterfall, so took my chance to take some time out, have a wash and let the water pummel the aches from my back.

Before lunchtime, I was riding towards a small town, but came to a peligroso (danger) ribbon across the road. I thought nothing much of it, but then soon realised the dirt road I was following had been turned into a rally car track for the day. I didn't really want to stop so carried on cycling for a while, until the shouts from people at the road side became difficult to ignore. Four or five rally cars had shot past me, it was easy to hear and see them coming. From a distance the dust was up high in the and the noise was deafening. Anyhow, I got to a narrow comer, and they were right, I should be off the road, so I took a spot next to a tienda and watched the show.

Everybody was in high spirits, and popped rice and drinks were handed out. Great times! When it finished, a man asked if eaten, nope! So he brought me out a bowl of chicken and pasta. Back on the road. Bit worried every driver would now think they were pro rally drivers!

And last, but by no means least -I cracked part of my frame! My steel frame! The part that attached the rack to the frame, quite important. I had to use a zip tie to hold it together, I don't think it'll last long, time to visit a welder!

9th October 2016

Last night I climbed almost 2000m in one stretch, tough going. The kind where you need the mental strength just to keep peddling, there were a few times where I thought, I just can't do it, I need to stop but stopping is your own worst enemy, just keep pushing the pedals it's the only way.

Anyhow, it was getting late, I was seemingly heading for a pass and did not want to get stuck at the top. I'd hoped that I'd reach 'el alto' and then bolt down the other side as fast as I could. However, at the top, the road down was cobblestone, all cobblestone - the worst type of road possible on a bicycle. I tried but didn't get far. There was no one, no buildings, no nothing -it was cold and desolate, no where for shelter at all. I decided that I'd have to sleep sin sleeping bag in one of the dry water chutes under the road and was waiting for one, when I found a bridge with a waterfall next to it, and a small slither of ground for my tent. Perfect, just had to hope a storm didn't roll in.

A cold and starry night, I awoke and made a coffee and then put some more water on for my tea. Suddenly, I heard a big gushing noise, coming from the top of the waterfall. Mind my French but oh shit! The water coming down doubled in size. I froze instantly waiting to see how much it would change where I was camped. The water level started rising, touching my tent. Slight panic, moved the tent and then stuffing all my things into my bags.

I could only think that someone had opened a sluice up top for it to change that quickly. I moved my things out of harms way and climbed out of the ditch - I could no longer climb out the way I came in. Flash floods do occur but I didn't see any dark clouds in the distance, still clouds were starting to cover the sky - I finished off as quickly as I could and rolled down the bumpy road as fast as my bike could carry me. Quite a bit of excitement for the morning!

The 2000m decent to Cochabumba was not what I had it mind, almost slower than going uphill! And terrible for my broken frame/rack. Still it was a great morning and exciting to be returning to the bright lights of the city.

Chasing Che

20th October 2016

Che Guevara needs no introduction. After his failed campaign in the Congo (not surprised that failed!), he trotted off to Bolivia. It made more sense, his native language, his native continent. Bolivia, much like the Congo is at the heart of the continent, it borders Peru, Brazil, Chile, Argentina and Paraguay. If his revolution caught, it could spread with ease.

Che is synonymous with Cuba, yet before he embarked on his fight in Bolivia, Fidel Castro forced him to resign his post. Castro wanted no association with Che's continuing exploits - Fidel had had his revolution, he'd taken power, time to placate the great powers, Che was on his own.

In his last days, Che was writing his Bolivian diaries and seemed to be of the impression that momentum was gaining and all was going to plan. Yet, the government had just awarded farmers rights to their land, something which would have removed their need to fight. If Che wanted a revolution, he needed an opposition that made the workers willing to fight. During my time in the area he was captured, I am not surprised that Che was perhaps not so aware of such events, he chose an area so remote, that to gather more than a rabble must have been hard.

I cycled along the 'Che trail' - which takes in La Higuera, the place he was captured. He was taken to a local school and held captive before being executed, with CIA operatives present. His body was then flown to Vallegrade, where his body was then displayed to the world's press in the laundry room of the hospital. His body was then, unbeknownst to the public, buried in a mass grave with his companions, next to Vallegrade's airport. It wasn't until 1997 that a reporter uncovered the hidden location of the grave, and his body was exhumed and flown to Cuba.

Since the socialist, and indigenous Evo Morales took power in Bolivia, Che Guevara has become a celebrated figure. The revolution he tried to start in the sixties supposedly happened with Evo. Both Vallegrade and LA Higuera are both now shrines to Che with iconic graffiti covering every building.