Bob's Blog

The Inca Trails

The Road to Purgatory

14th August 2016

Crash, bang, wallop. I had 8 days of reaching for the heavens, almost totally in a world of my own, letting thoughts free. Suddenly after the last pass of 4850m the sky blackened, I got a first puncture and snow started falling - omens of what lie ahead. Downhill and back to the Carterra Central - one of the main thoroughfares to Lima. With no and going downhill, it was absolutely freezing. I approached a town described as a 'hole' my guide. I stopped when I saw a lady cooking something - pancakes times two, it was.

I was in no mood to have my peace broken and the locals small talk toward me was met by a glare as cold as ice. Though it seemed to be interpreted as I was deaf; as next thing, the banter was shouted in my ear. Onwards, as quickly as possible.

I'd gone from, where, in the hills, the peasants were a thing of charm. Here the poor, whilst not so different, were the untouchables - the romanticism of idyllic life in country versus the corruption of modern life.

Trucks everywhere, no room on the road. Tunnels, dark tunnels, with trucks bearing down upon me - I pray they spot me.

Quickly stopped in a small town to get some supplies and whilst on this, the main trunk road to Lima, products should have been cheaper than in the hills, they were in fact more expensive. No sense here of sharing, and charging a fair price but to make the most money, to get ahead. This place was bleak.

Run, run, run for the hills! Diversion, away from the road to purgatory but still I see barbed wire fences and two words inscribed on gates 'propiedad privada'. Keep going, further away, return peace and over the hills.

White Fang

17th August 2016

They came out of nowhere. Sprang right on top of me, like they knew I was coming. I'd fallen into their trap.

I'd been cycling up towards a high pass and it was getting late. I rounded a corner and saw a small settlement surrounded by a huge fence - quite odd for the area. Then two dogs sprang out, teeth bared, looking for a fight. I didn't have time to pick up a stone and no possibility I could have cycled past them.

The first came towards me, still with its gnashers out. I then tried to clamber off my bicycle to use it as a defence, but the other dog ran around the side, fangs out, closing in. I needed protection, I saw the fence and tried to back into it, except I wasn't looking, and went backwards, top over tail, entangled with my bike, very hard, over a medium sized boulder.

Once realised I hadn't broken anything, the caper was up and the dogs knew it. I got up, in rather a huff, picked up the biggest stone I could find - the dogs scarpered quicldy. By the time I was able to get a shot in, they were already quite some distance away, though my normally bad aim when throwing at dogs, was instantly improved, missing by just a whisker. And this time, I was not playing, with small stones, these were rocks, thrown at full force.

One dog, the black one, scarpered out of sight, down the mountain. The other was still in sight. After I'd cycled away, with a sore back, sore neck, scraped leg and hurt pride, I went back for a second go. After one closely missed shot, the other dog disappeared. One day, I will get my revenge, dogs!!!

The day ended at the highest ever camp of 4600m. Heading into inhospitable territory, I found a rock face, which is now providing some respite from the biting cold wind chill and the snow falling above.

Tunnel Vision

18th August 2016

Yesterday I was fighting fit. Today is another matter. I slept early in the night but woke from a dream about the book I was reading -Anne Frank's diary, not a usual dream but just the characters names revolving on broken repeat, one name, then another, and on and on. I woke with my chest hurting and couldn't sleep again for a few hours. I wasn't sure if it was the altitude or the aftermath of the dog encounter.

I awoke when the sun rose but forced myself to sleep until 8. My chest still hurt, as well as my lower back and my neck. I put some lemon on the scrapes on my leg to prevent infection. Ouch. Bad bowel problem. Not a great way to start the day, especially when ahead there is no escape for 3 days, everything above 4500m.

Two passes (of the mountain variety) to start the day. The first, was OK but come the second I was feeling wretched - the sun had gone in and I had no energy or breath.

To the freezing plateau, the weather forlorn, raining in the mountains ahead. I started feeling dizzy and my vision was narrowing, there was no one around and I couldn't descend. The walls were closing in. Had to continue, no choice. Horrible cycling when almost at the point of passing out. Tunnel vision.

I eventually saw a few people which helped calm me a little. Then I made it to the lowest point of the day, but still 4500m. I found shelter at 3pm. I had to rest and couldn't bear to continue.

I hope I feel better tomorrow. Really do not want that feeling again. Don't feel great now but at least in my tent and having cup after cup of ginger and lemon tea. Keeping it simple for dinner - plain pasta.

Really looking forward to the town in 110km, 3 more passes then thermal hot springs to ease away my aches and pains.